A good day in the surf
This morning I had the opportunity to sleep in until 10am, rise liesurely, and then have a traditional costa rican breakfast. As most of you know I never pass up an opporunity to sleep in, so I was pretty happy to be able to do so. I think if everyone followed the same schedule I do, then the world would be a better place.
But anyway, we went to the contest site, Estirillios Oeste, again this afternoon. I didn´t have a very good time there yesterday, but today was comletely different.
The past two days, the waves at Estirillos have been mushy and slow. Today, however, they formed up nicely on the inside, with some good steepness to them.....just the kind of wave I like. The lip was good an firm, but when it broke it was deceptively gentle. For those of you who aren´t surfing inclined, a steep wave with a firm lip allows for big moves when the wave breaks. Its just the kind of surf that I like because I love doing tricks off the lip. On the east coast of the US, when the waves are steep like this, they can be intimidating because they usually are very heavy and break in shallow water. This was not the case today though, because this wave seems much lighter, and the bottom is quite deep. There were only a few of us surfing the steepest part, and we had a good time watching each others rides. I had some fun rides, and I was able to get some good roundhouses and ¨karate chops¨ off the lip. I am working on a new move called the ¨Barn Burner¨ and I was able to pull a few of those off as well. We surfed until dark, and all in all it was a great day. I only hope that the waves are similar during the contest, if so it should be fun.
Hope all of you are well.
jHo
But anyway, we went to the contest site, Estirillios Oeste, again this afternoon. I didn´t have a very good time there yesterday, but today was comletely different.
The past two days, the waves at Estirillos have been mushy and slow. Today, however, they formed up nicely on the inside, with some good steepness to them.....just the kind of wave I like. The lip was good an firm, but when it broke it was deceptively gentle. For those of you who aren´t surfing inclined, a steep wave with a firm lip allows for big moves when the wave breaks. Its just the kind of surf that I like because I love doing tricks off the lip. On the east coast of the US, when the waves are steep like this, they can be intimidating because they usually are very heavy and break in shallow water. This was not the case today though, because this wave seems much lighter, and the bottom is quite deep. There were only a few of us surfing the steepest part, and we had a good time watching each others rides. I had some fun rides, and I was able to get some good roundhouses and ¨karate chops¨ off the lip. I am working on a new move called the ¨Barn Burner¨ and I was able to pull a few of those off as well. We surfed until dark, and all in all it was a great day. I only hope that the waves are similar during the contest, if so it should be fun.
Hope all of you are well.
jHo
posted by jHo at 7:47 PM
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